Urban Food Chains

the links between diet and power

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Trussed in the system?

Once in a while, somebody releases statistics or data that tells a complete story in figures alone. Take this example from the National Farmers’ Union (NFU)  last week.

…One fifth of laying hen are kept in sheds that are more than 25 years old, with the average shed age being 17 years. Meanwhile, sheds for pullet ands and breeding  activities are  even  older . The total spend on  building construction fell by 40% compared to the previous five-year period. The UK poultry sector is being squeezed, even if this is not immediately apparent.; If you want another example, many English pullets  are living in sheds that are up to 50 years old, while their Welsh counterparts are accommodated in sheds that go back 12 years on average. (data available here))

There is  no suggestion that the fabric of the buildings concerned  could be unsound, but rather that as supermarket suppliers, they have faced pressure to leave capital expenditure for years on en. The lack of due process to recover their legitimate capital costs, let alone operating costs, just adds injury to insult.

 

 

 

Tipping points in history

In the wake of changes brought about by the revolution, the  focus of the French economy shifted. The 18th century was a time when international trade was operating in what people used to call triangular trading patterns.  Starting in the UK or a European port, ships would sail to ports on the African coast, where they collected shipments of slaves before leaving for the Caribbean. Many died aboard ship, others within days or weeks of arriving. The ships stayed tied up while they were loaded with tea and sugar before returning to London, where these luxury products were taxed and sold on.

Carrying food safety is a bit like a fairground ride: it appears chaotic at first sight, but  the staff who have to work on the rides develop very finely tuned responses to changes in their work.

There is a more than a touch of narrative enthusiasm surrounding the lives and work of such industry demigods as Nicolas Appert;  Louis Pasteur; Antoine-Augustin Parmentier. Many of the robust and worthy food industry leaders of the 19th century were also buried in the Parthenon, provided the body was not in an advanced state of decay. Legendary French family food businesses, just like their founders, have been long-lived, profitable and  for those tourists who thought that Paris was as good as it gets, a source of wonder to passing visitors to France. There are many competent food companies working in obscure corners of la France profonde  and a lot of them knock the parisians into a cocked hat.

Take a scrap of paper and start writing down a list of French firms. As you start looking for famous businesses and household   names in towns and cities across France, you will find highly reputable companies with postcodes that spell out traditional landscapes rather than modernity. For me, the four generations of the Hénaff family come to mind: starting with very simple ingredients, they have a very small staff, but manage a huge production schedule. due to the efforts of third generation family member Jean-Jacques Hénaff. His core product is the canned Paté Hénaff,  perfected at the Hénaff family’s manufacturing site in Pouldreuzic on the Breton peninsula. Should you like fungi, look up the Borde  mushroom packing plant. All three generations were busy sorting and cleaning fungi, when I visited.

The tropical peasants who supply large quantities of almost dry fungi used to top up the sacks with ferrous waste to bulk up the weight loss in the drying stage. Nobody ever mentions the overweight sacks to the suppliers, for one very simple reason. So long as they carry on using scrap iron pellets, the metal shows up on a standard food industry  conveyor belt. If the pickers change the material used to top up the sack weight, there is a risk that  the substitution might not be detected in time, with potentially expensive litigation.

Elsewhere, in the south of France, spirit manufacturer, Matthieu Tesseire was politically active during the early 18th century. By 1720 the Tesseires had spotted the risk of a change of government, sold their land and sailed to the Caribbean, where nobody was challenged for their politics. The family devised  a reliable and safe way of transporting sugar to metropolitan France, earning a fortune as they went.  As the generations passed, they became increasingly argumentative and ongoing feuds within the clan finally pushed André Tesseire to restructure the business as a twenty first century corporate entity, in a despairing bid to prevent personal emnities from tearing up a multi-million cash cow into commercial confetti.

In the years leading into the 19th century, transport set operational ceilings for distribution systems, but once the age of steam was in motion, bigger load sizes and greater carrying capacities resolved a lot of the once-intractable issues.

Missing the point…

There are a number of gaps in the human rights platform that cannot be allowed to go unchallenged. The first is that in eighteenth century France, it excluded women, which was more than a minor oversight. It means that where womens’ rights had prevailed, there were the beginnings of a more balanced society. But while womens’ voices were heard in occasional outbursts and as far away from the functions of government as could be managed, the bigger flaw in the liberal vision remains the exclusion of the planet and the natural world from future vision. There is no way that humanity can be left to destroy the planet’s resources  from the highest levels of the atmosphere to the deepest recesses of the oceans. It is not just ironic that a species which claims the world’s resources for itself should make such a good job of destroying life on the planet, its own included. It is also extremely offensive, not least because of the high levels of coercion that the world’s rulers apply to those around them.

Universal rights for all?

The opening weeks of the French revolution saw the drafting of a declaration establishing the existence of human rights and what each person was obliged to do to protect the same rights and privileges for their fellow citizens. These boundaries can only be determined by law. As we shall see later, there was no  question of extending such protection to animals, let alone the natural world or even the planet. This anthropocentric oversight is something we are still paying for and is unlikely to be resolved in an equitable fashion.

We need to start somewhere and there is every sign that even exemplary revolutionaries will struggle with the idealistic aims of human rights: the planet comes off second best in the face of such the supposedly universal rights, as do flora and fauna the length and breadth of the planet. Having claimed the lion’s share of the world’s natural resources, the human revolutionary elite turned its attention to making a set of laws to withhold its new-found privileges from those who could possibly represent a challenge to future generations of global power brokers. The irony of this paradox is a heavy burden that is shared with nature in every corner of the globe: we have already seen some of the consequences in our atmosphere, our ocean depths and our chances of survival, but this is only this is only the beginning.

Palais Bourbon faces reality

For France’s parliamentarians, 1993 ended with some progress, but without a readily identifiable outcome. To be sure, national legislation had got a better grip on the systematic abuses of commercial practice, but there remained a lot of work to finish before anyone would be able to say they had anything solid to show for it. The  French government focussed on the work of a parliamentary commission led by Jean-Paul Charié, the député for Loiret, which shares its name with an upstream tributary of the river Loire. Sadly, Charié did not live to see the fruits of his work, but his input was invaluable, especially in the way he could summarise and implement new national expectations for commercial propriety.

France needed laws to protect its citizens… but now it’s too late

Philippe SEGUIN at a meeting with UPE members in the 1990

Times change: it is no longer considered smart to be dismissive of liberty and the rule of law. In 1993, the leader of the French parliament, Philippe Séguin implored his colleagues at the Palais Bourbon to double down on sharp commercial practices. He was addressing members of the elected lower house of the French parliament at the start of a root and branch review of the country’s commercial law for the food industry. Nowhere else in the national economy was it so important to establish and protect a body of people that would both protect current legislation yet still allow business and industry to develop and extend free trade in positive ways.

“Managing a balanced set of rules  for free competition is only possible when there is full a
greement on a legal framework that will protect and develop equitable trading, while still allowing lawmakers to legislate with precision and firm resolve to prevent any future damage.”

Restoring damaged sectors, building the trust for future developments and protecting the weak from the predations of the rich and powerful are just three tasks still waiting for French lawmakers

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Preserving a free trading environment is an important and basic requirement for our country, Séguin declared.

Where there’s muck, there’s knowledge

This year sees the eightieth birthday of France’s top agronomist, Marc Dufumier (fumier = manure in French) who served as the head of AgroParisTech from 2002 until his retirement in 2011. “What’s in a name? ” you ask… An earthy sense of humour, perhaps? Happy birthday, Sir.

Winners and losers in 2025

Strong Christmas sales: Lidl

Isolated locations: Co-op

 

Struggling: ASDA

The UK food industry is facing a period of chaos and change. At the beginning of the year, Wakefield-based Morrisons warned of extensive store closures and job losses. The group’s remaining fish, butchery and cheese counters are set to go, along with other added value categories. While Morrisons’ sales showed a 3.1% increase in the four weeks before Christmas, it is unlikely to prevent a fire sale of added value categories and a review of procurement priorities. The decline in the multiple’s commercial performance in recent months point towards a long term decline. So far this year, Morrisons has announced the closure of its Rathbones Bakery business, with a predicted 115 job losses: more can be expected to follow as the year progresses. It would be logical for middle grade management to be updating CVs and for senior management grades, along with board members, to be checking the scope of their their NDAs and how much wriggle room they have, if any, in the event of an unscheduled career move..

There are concerns, too, for the future of the Co-op.The chain has announced 19 store closures, which will be completed by the summer. Three sites will be leased out to B+M and the remaining 16 will be taken over by Sammy, a regional chain. The disposals will include stores in Norfolk, Leicestershire, the West Midlands, Nottingham and South Yorkshire. The Coop started the year with more than 2,200 outlets, many of them small, local supermarkets or c-stores. Closures would leave some significant gaps in the UK retail landscape and re-open questions over what can be considered viable. Like ASDA, the Co-op is struggling with significant debt problems and handed over its once thriving banking business to a debt management consortium. Given that Aldi is planning to open 80 stores over the next two years, it may be in a position to insist on favourable treatment when cherry picking underperforming sites from struggling competitors.

Christmas sales figures are still regarded as a long term indication of the profitability of retail businesses for the coming months. Tesco banked its  largest surge in seasonal takings for December 2025, while Lidl, Sainsbury and Waitrose reported solid gains in December food sales. With a good number of retailers earning good margins with premium fresh food ranges, ASDA’s return to selling mainstram brands at discounted prices is a dated strategy. The return of Alan Leighton to his old firm suggests that the original problems were not addressed the first time round, which also begs the question of whether it will work the second time around. More than a generation after the original rollback, it is time to ask how many of the first rollback customers are still alive, let alone shopping for food. The ASDA demographic can be used to support a short to medium term reliance on brands with an appetite for older consumers, but the same data also makes a stronger case for building a strong rapport with younger consumers with young families. Younger customers would help to build a stronger future for the business, over a longer time span.

Turning up the volume

Scottish fishermen working in the North Sea from the from the 18th century onwards, adopted the cran basket as a measure of fish on the quayside; a full cran of herring weighed 56 stone and was usually spread across four quarter cran baskets. (56 stone = 56 x14 divided by 2,2 kilos) The quarter cran basket became a legalised trading measure in Scotland during the 19th century, followed by England and Wales in 1908.

The cran was first and foremost a volumetric unit, fixed in trading regulations at 37.5 imperial gallons, although dockside traders often needed to know the number of fish in a basket. While most quarter cran baskets held about 1,200 fish, the differing sizes and weights in arriving consignments ranged from around 700 fish (rare) to almost 2,000 (juveniles). For a piece count, there is no quick alternative to opening the basket.

The baskets were cylindrical with just a hint of a bulge: they were supplied in whole  cran, half cran and quarter cran sizes. The basket weaver wove a foot into each cran, so that every base stood solidly on the deck, crowding around the fishermen who were waiting for the seine nets to be brought inboard and emptied on the deck. The first task was to ensure that all the weevers were removed from the flailing mass of gasping fish. A weever is a very small fish, not more than  three or four inches long, if that. Their spiny backs have venomous stings that can kill an unwary man in minutes.

The deck  crew sort and gather  the catch,  most of it is herring, bound for the smokehouses. Before the quarter cran baskets are filled, they are moved to the unloading area on the deck. Once again, the skill of the basket weaver is put to the test: a quarter cran basket holds on average seven stone (7stone = 7×14 divided by 2.2 kilos) of fish. The baskets are topped with a solidly woven rim. They are unloaded using a small steam-powered crane and of specially shaped pair of clips to hold the basket until they land on the quayside with a gentle scrunching noise. Soon to be smoked as kippers, some of this catch would have been sent to London by train overnight, arriving just in time for breakfast at a gentlemens’ club.

Lifetime in food

The NFU’s next director general is an experienced food industry management figure. Sophie Throup joins the National Farmers’ Union in May, bringing with her years of board level experience, notably as Head of Agriculture at Morrisons. Raised on her family farm in Yorkshire, her working life reflects her commitment to food production. “My roots have always been in agriculture, and I know how important this period of change is for the sector,’ she told journalists when her appointment was announced. NFU members have frequent problems when dealing with multiple retailers, since food producers are not automatically the supplier named on the documentation. This seemingly minor distinction makes an  important difference, since food retailers will stone wall and refuse to engage with any party that is not explicitly named on the account details. Quite apart from being very frustrating, this can make some contracts unworkable. This may be a deliberate tactic used by the retailer, or it may be used to stress test a supplier. Time sensitive crops and activities are particularly vulnerable to such practices, since person or party that has to deliver the product has no way of knowing where the real problem arises. Retail logistics will often assume that all categories are time sensitive and place a 20-minute window on deliveries, particularly store deliveries, to keep sites moving, even if the products themselves are stable.

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