Yorkshire-based supermarket Morrisons is going to give up using best-before dates on a lot of its liquid milk lines and is telling customers to sniff the milk as they take it out of the fridge and make their own minds up as to whether or not it is fit to drink. The story appeared on the BBC, which added that milk is one of the most heavily wasted foodstuffs, with 490 million pints being dumped every year, 85 million of which is slung out because it had passed its best-before date. Properly managed refrigeration can keep milk wholesome beyond this time, which is a suggestion not a statement of fact.
Shaken, not stirred
The EUR15 billion Campari group has been talking to the FT about shifting the focus of its marketing to drinking at home, since the pandemic has all but shut down the hospitality sector. Campari reckons that indoor drinking will remain a growth area in the cocktail market, even after the pandemic subsides. Here is an improbably long link to the story in the FT, with no guarantee that it will will work for very long, if at all.
https://click.news-alerts.ft.com/f/content-e9e38332-9762-48cd-b206-b030b2707d6f/HgxNZkS8LqpL8e8zCHJ1bA~~/AAAAAQA~/RgRjvkEiP0ShaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZnQuY29tL2NvbnRlbnQvZTllMzgzMzItOTc2Mi00OGNkLWIyMDYtYjAzMGIyNzA3ZDZmP2Rlc2t0b3A9dHJ1ZSZzZWdtZW50SWQ9N2M4ZjA5YjktOWI2MS00ZmJiLTk0MzAtOTIwOGE5ZTIzM2M4I215ZnQ6bm90aWZpY2F0aW9uOmRhaWx5LWVtYWlsOmNvbnRlbnRXCGZpbnRpbWVzQgph1SK822HozVHBUhRwZXRlckBjcm9zc2tleS5jby51a1gEAAAAAA~~Tesco makes pig harvest gaffe
Tesco tweet bot “Kayley” upset UK pig farmers on January 5 by suggesting that British pork supply gaps were weather-related and that the retailer stocked pigmeat from a number of countries to ensure the best quality was always available. In the process the retailer coined the “pig harvest”, adding to the anger of pig producers all over the country. Read Alastair Driver’s account of this episode in Pig World.
Longer shelf life for fresh produce
Swiss researchers have found a way of using fruit and vegetable peelings to make a coating that extends the shelf life of fresh produce. Staff at the Empa research body have been working with Lidl Switzerland since 2019 to develop what promises to be a game changer.
Testing the coating on bananas, a gain of up to a week was recorded in the product life. There is the added benefit that with a reduction in the use plastic materials, the risk of condensation or rot in transit is also lower. “The big goal is that such bio-coatings will be able to replace a lot of petroleum-based packaging in the future,” explains Gustav Nyström, head of the Empa lab.
Lidl Switzerland has 150 stores that will take part in testing the new coating as it continues its development over the next two years.
Further details from the Empa website.
British pigs overlooked in Brexit preparations
Urgent requests for government involvement in setting up the commercial infrastructure that would be needed for trading as a third country after Brexit were mostly ignored, according to pig industry body the National Pig Association (NPA). In November 2020, with less than two months before the end of the transition period, the association had “…a long list…” of unanswered procedural questions for the export of breeding pigs and pork products after Brexit.
While the NPA continued to work closely with the environment ministry DEFRA, NPA chief executive Dr Zoe Davies warned that: “…time is now running short and we need more urgency and engagement from across Government before it is simply too late.”
She observed that the UK pig sector faced the very real prospects of being unable to continue the vitally important trade in breeding stock to the EU and of severe delays, as well as higher costs and reduced market access for pork exports. “The impact could be devastating,” she warned.
Some of the unanswered questions required solutions regardless of whether or not there was a Brexit agreement in place after the transition period. Topping the list was a lack of Border Control Post (BCP) facilities in key European ports for live pigs and in some instances pork products. Once the grace period ends for customs health checks on imports, serious doubts persist about the availability of qualified veterinary professionals to process a tidal wave of additional certificates. The NPA estimates that the paperwork alone will increase fivefold.
“We are still waiting for an indication of whether or not the significant extra veterinary resource required can be met,” explains Davies. In 2020 DEFRA told the NPA to persuade the key EU port authorities to invest in the necessary BCP facilities and left the association to its own devices. “There has been no interest from the Government in helping us engage at either Commission or Member State level.”
The required investments in BCP facilities will also be required for consignments arriving in the UK once the transition period is over. “There are no seaport BCPs in the UK at present either,” explains Davies.
“Defra has pointed out that, as it is phasing in import checks, these won’t be needed until July 2021. However, we will need to know well in advance what the exact requirements will be for testing and inspection, while any port operating as a BCP will require time to put the necessary infrastructure in place.” The financial commitment involved is significant: it includes specialist veterinary staff appointments as well as buildings and laboratory facilities.
A further practical consideration that was still unresolved at the end of the transition period was transport. “Hauliers will require separate authorisations and qualifications in both the EU and UK. There is still a complete lack of clarity as to how companies will be able to register and hold multiple authorisations without adding huge cost.”
The operational impact on the slaughtering and processing sector of losing large numbers of qualified non-UK EU vets is not a new concern. The issue was raised in the House of Lords report number 15 published during the 2017-8 session of Parliament. (https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/ld201719/ldselect/ldeucom/15/15.pdf)
This post first appeared about 10 days before Christmas. Today, December 25, it is clear that the government has learnt nothing from this episode; there is a lingering temptation to suggest that this was the intention all along. More than 30,000 healthy pigs have been culled at the expense of pig producers up and down the country. Many of them have gone or will go out of business through business through no fault of their own.
British pig producers face oblivion
A 20% drop in the number of skilled butchers working in British abattoirs and boning halls has led to a 25% fall in the number of pigs being bought in by the slaughtering sector. The result is that British pig farmers are running out of room to keep unsold pigs and face the prospect of culling thousands of healthy animals.
The National Pig Association chief executive Zoe Davies is already warning that most of the British pig industry will be out of business by next summer. From its conversations with members, the NPA can confirm that at least 16,000 healthy pigs have already been culled in recent weeks, but the figure is almost certainly the tip of a very grisly iceberg.
The UK government has offered support packages for the processing sector in a bid to restore slaughtering capacity but none of this will stop pig farmers going out of business. Farming minister George Eustice is on the record saying that he can’t see what else he can do that might help pig producers stay in business.
NPA ceo Zoe Davies is frustrated by DEFRA’s lack of foresight. “If that’s the way they want it, then that’s the way it will go. We will just see droves of people going out business, there won’t be a British pig sector going forward, or it will be massively reduced, and we will just end up importing all the product from European Union.”
Davies estimates that the pig crisis cost producers GBP 130 million during the first six months of 2021 and she is seeing farmers leaving the pig sector and farming.
The operational impact on the slaughtering and processing sector of losing large numbers of highly qualified non-UK EU staff is not a new concern. The issue was raised in the House of Lords report number 15 published during the 2017-8 session of Parliament. (https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/ld201719/ldselect/ldeucom/15/15.pdf)
Dietary gold on trees
Today (Friday November 26) is World Olive Tree Day, as growers in the northern hemisphere prepare to pick the next crop of olives. More than two thirds of the world’s olive trees grow in the Mediterranean basin and survive thanks to their deep roots. Younger trees planted in more recent groves will often be irrigated until their roots have reached cooler, damp rock formations.
Olives are a winter crop: starting in November unripe green olives are gathered and pressed for distinctively strong, green oil. As the winter progresses, the olives darken and ripen, the oil changing to gold as the flavour softens with the fruit. The harvest continues into February and March, depending on varieties and locations.
Traditional olive-picking techniques needed the olives to be hard enough not to break up as pickers beat the trees with heavy sticks. Today, large groves are harvested with a mechanical arm attached to the trunk of the tree. The tree is then shaken vigorously, emptying the fruit onto large sheets spread out to catch the crop. The process is stressful for the tree, but is quicker than the stick-wielding villagers. The remaining winter months are a time of recovery.
Once picked, olives are fragile. Away from the tree, the olives start to accumulate free oleic acid as they oxidise during the different stages of processing. Only when the oil is extracted and stored under nitrogen can the oxidation be halted. The largest pressing plants, typically in Spain, where batches are consolidated and have more time to oxidise, face the prospect of minimising the effects as best they can.
Olives picked for the table have an additional constraint: unlike olives bound for pressing, every table olive needs to be visually perfect. To remove the stones from olives, the flesh needs to be firm and the olive must be unripe. To produce black pitted olives, green olives are treated to make the flesh black and then the stones can be removed mechanically. By the time an olive has fully ripened and turned black naturally, it is no longer possible to remove the stones mechanically, since the soft flesh just falls apart. The taste, however, is exquisite.
Olive oil grades
Olive oil is a highly-prized commodity, for a very wide range of reasons. As a key ingredient of many elements in the Mediterranean diet, it is a pivotal component of Mediterranean cuisine. Across the region, household use of olive oil would be counted in dozens of litres a year.
Spain is the world’s biggest producer and user of olive oil: collectively, domestic consumers buy tens of thousands of tonnes every month. The country usually produces over a million tonnes of olive oil a year, much of it shipped to packers all around the world.
Greek olives are harvested in small quantities and pressed within hours of coming off the tree. Domestic Italian production is an even lower tonnage. Italian blenders are very skilled at procuring the right mix of flavours and colours of oil from all over the world to blend in bulk. The bottles were often marked “Prodotto in Italia” (“produced in Italy”) but this delightfully vague ambiguity was outlawed by the European Commission.
Pressing yields anything up to 20% by weight in oil. This ranges from the cheap and cheerful institutional canteen cooking oil, olive pomace oil, through to single estate, single variety specialist extra virgin olive oils containing less than 0.08% in free oleic acid. Like wine, the estate bottled oils are like an exclusive club: they are as distinctive as the groves they came from.
The next grade, virgin olive oil, will have less than 2% free oleic acid, which will be reflected in the taste. The different grades of virgin olive oil are too delicate to be suitable for deep frying, which is the main use for olive pomace oil. Pomace is the paste that is left over from the mechanical pressing process used to extract virgin oil grades. Due to its lower moisture content, olive pomace oil is better suited to high temperature applications.
Filling their boots
UK food retailers have filled their boots selling olive oil. These days they are taking a gross margin of between 30% and 40% on own label olive oil, somewhat less on branded products. Own label is more profitable because the retailer can control every last detail of the specification. But with today’s rising costs, the retailers have to curb their expectations. Besides, if Aldi and Lidl can sell extra virgin olive oil at around three to four quid a bottle, the mainstream retailers cannot afford to exaggerate their pricing.
During the 1990s the major multiples were skimming off 60p and more from every pound spent on own label extra virgin olive oil sold on a rapidly-growing market. This naked greed went unchallenged, since UK consumers trusted retailers to supply a grade of oil that merited the price being charged. No chance.
The sales director of a UK oil packer told me of his experience in those days with an own-label project with one of the big four. “I sourced an attractive bottle and filled it with a reasonable grade of extra virgin oil.” The multiple concerned stood to earn 66p in the pound on the SKU. “When I presented it to them, they turned round and said ‘fill it with shit and we’ll make 75%.’ At which point I put the samples back in my case and walked out.”
revised November 27 2021.
Knock, knock…
The French finance ministry announced the other week that it had raided a number of multiple food retailer head offices and some of their suppliers. In a terse staement dated November 9, the competition authority warned that it is not going to identify the retailers concerned and will not risk compromising the investigation.
In similar raids in the past, inspectors of the Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes (DGCCRF) have carried out raids without warning and gathered thousands of invoices and other documents within 12 hours. Known as the “répression des fraudes” the DGCCRF has a justified reputation for being ruthlessly efficient.